Genius Loci: Four days of surf and sound in a coastal paradise, with Latin flavor
Sirena stands proud at the summit of the Peninsula stage, overlooking the expanse of one of the most unique festivals anywhere: a pop-up encampment on a remote beach in Baja California. The echoes of waves crashing behind the DJ booth blend seamlessly with the driving bass of the choice selections of a Mexican DJ named Luiza.
Sirena responds to my inquisitive stare: “I’m used to answering ‘I’m from Mexico.’ whenever someone asks me where I’m from. This week, my answer is ‘I’m from here.’ This is my land. Esta es mi tierra!” she says. “America has the title of ‘land of the free,’ but that’s just a title. The real feeling comes from Mexico. It’s an amazing feeling of freedom. The humility, the love that travels through its lands… only in Mexico.”
Her sentiment was shared by the attendees at Genius Loci, a four-day mini-festival combining surfing, music and yoga tucked away in a magical cove in Punta Cabras, an hour south of Ensenada.
It’s easy to see where Genius Loci — created by L.A.-based Henry Pope and Loboman and in its sixth year — gets its name. In classical Roman religion, a genius loci was the prevailing atmosphere, character or spirit of a place. And this was all about unique spirit. Whether daytime dancing on the sands in front of the Beach stage butted up against a bluff, nighttime wandering from the Main stage to the various art installations and amenities, or late-night searching for the Peninsula Afterhours stage tucked dangerously close to the rocks reverberating from the powerful waves meters behind the DJs, this place felt atmospheric to a spiritual degree.
More than half of the festival’s DJs were from or based out of Los Angeles. Highlights included sets from headliner TOKiMONSTA; L.A. favorites Marques Wyatt, John Wander and Jeremy Sole; consciousness festival fixtures Tara Brooks, Lonely Boy and Zach Walker; and underground champions Bouncehouse, Fleetwood Smack and Aaron Jacobs. But the real surprises were the unexpected fire sets by Luiza and Shany.
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For Venice Beach-based Loboman — aka DJ/producer Eduardo Manilla — it’s all about walls: The lack of them. Here, on the beachfront, multiple flags from various countries flutter in the ocean breeze, symbols of Genius Loci’s theme of acceptance.
“We are bringing so many people together to a remote location where relationships are made, friendships start and a tribe comes together,” he says. “We bring DJs from both sides of the border to foster a new camaraderie in the Baja/SoCal music scene. This represents us, our backgrounds, and our lifestyles and we are stoked to see this as a catalyst to create more magic with music. We are manifesting attracting people from all around the world by waving all those flags. Everyone’s welcome this side of the wall.”
In a time of strident rhetoric about building walls and closing borders, Genius Loci has built a bridge between Los Angeles and Baja Mexico through the magic of music, surfing, yoga and the spirit of receptiveness. It’s a microcosm of all of the best parts of Los Angeles, enhanced by the gorgeous, remote location, weather and culture provided by our southern neighbors. A coastal paradise with a killer soundtrack and a unique ability to connect former strangers from all corners of the globe.
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Mexicali-born Luiza, already semi-well known in Baja, really should be a household name in LA. Running into her in the wee hours to find her half-awake walking to the Peninsula Afterhours stage proved to be a blessing. She waltzed in casually as if she owned the place and left us humbled feeling like she should. Any former inkling that the early morning could be coming to an end was instantly shaken from our eyes. Luiza had expertly crafted a set ripe with juicy basslines to give festival-goers the kick they needed to keep it going just a little bit longer.
The ethereal desert vibes of L.A.-based Shany translate perfectly from the Burning Man “playa” to the beach playas of Northern Baja. Poised perfectly at the Peninsula Afterhours stage, bathed in psychedelic neon light, the hostess for this musical trip smiled and bounced in unison with the grooves she showered down on the crowd. The petite powerhouse who once risked her life to chase her passion playing illegal desert parties in Iran consistently proves that she was born to do this.
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Genius Loci’s sense of place is strong. The organizers believe this corner of the coast possesses something special and want everyone to carry a little piece of it home with them. And even the locals benefit from the experience, with the festival pushing a food and clothing drive, offering jobs to the locals and driving home the “leave it better” ethos that will allow this event to continue to thrive.
It is reflected in the music, too.
“We’re starting to see the DJs evolve their sound and pick tunes that fit the location,” Loboman says. “So somehow we believe that Genius Loci is starting to have its own particular sound: massive like the waves and the rocks, epic like the love of the community, and topped with a bit of Latin flavor.”
Photos by Ko Yu